Thursday, August 15, 2013

Uganda, part 1

Needless to say (though apparently I plan to say it anyway) it’s been longer than intended since my last blog post. To two people at least, perhaps more, I promised to faithfully produce reports of my exploits in Uganda so that worries might be assuaged and curiosities satisfied! For both these reasons, I have finally sat down to pen (or type) my first post in this glorious nation of sun, clouds, dust, rain, and some of the most welcoming people this world has ever known.

Cool bird. Suspect is woodland kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis

I arrived in Entebbe on the 19th of July, 2013, on the late-night KLM flight at around 10pm. The flight goes from Amsterdam (11a) to Kigali, Rwanda (8pm) to Entebbe. I watched a number of movies, which I can’t now recall, though one of them was Identity Thief, which I found entertaining. Ooh! And Les Mis. I didn’t cry at that one as much as I’d expected to. After all, I knew the end! The least consequential of my impressions was that the costumes were fantastic. Oh! And I watched Warm Bodies. Okay, apparently I remember everything perfectly. My Ugandan horiscope today did say that it seemed like I ‘had it all”! (I agree) It also directed me to thank a higher power. Uganda puts the God back in astrology fo sho.

Upon arrival in Entebbe, one is greeted with the queues for visas ($50, please go ahead), and a baggage claim area (one carousel in use), and then you’re in Uganda! There always seem to be a great number of drivers waiting for charges who never show. I know this because on the two times I’ve arrived here, I’ve been one of the last passengers awaiting my ride and then it’s just me, staring at a bunch of people who are not my driver and a bunch of drivers staring back at a girl who is not their passenger, for 30 minutes or so, in a demonstration of uninterrupted awkwardness. I wonder who has sent them on their pointless errand? And perhaps they wonder if I can’t read their signs?

In good time, I am approached by a friendly face I remember! It’s Jordan! He was the kind and accomplished man who drove me to Entebbe on my way out of Uganda last year! Hello, Jordan! Nice to see you again! How are you?! Soon we are trundling toward Kampala, the scent of clean but dusty tropical air relieving my mind and feeling like a gentle welcome.

The view from my window at the Palm Hotel, Kampala. For reference, that's the Gadaffi Mosque on top of the hill

My first night, I spent in the Palm Hotel in Kampala in a location that ought to have been a short walk from downtown. Instead, I got lost on my first wander and ended up taking 2.5 hours for the journey. C’est la vie! I met a few very nice folks who helped me redirect myself. I got so thirsty and hungry after my walk that I ducked into an Indian place (Char Minar, which apparently means Four Minarets), where I met yet another kind Ugandan named Faizal, who might even help me buy a motorcycle. And he insisted on buying my lunch for me, too, and waved away my protests saying that he wanted to ‘Pay it forward’ and that I might be kind to someone the next day, and so on. I hope I have showed similar kindness on my way!

A few days in Kampala and then I made my way down to Nyanama, to the City Language Center (CLC), which is on the “New Entebbe Road”, or Kulupya, between Kampala and Zaana. And! And and and and AND! I have a host family! :D

The CLC set me up with the delightful Mr. Wilson and Mrs. Anne Kayanga, who live here near Nyanama with their youngest, Anggrey. What’s up, new fam! It has been so great actually living with a family these days rather than in some lonely hotel where I have only myself for company! Aii! Quel horreur! (I suspect that French is not legitimate).

My room at my host family's compound. Lovely!

The front yard, northwest view.
Sugarcane! DIRECTLY fresh cut, thanks to Johnson, one of the CLC Directors. Yum!
Here is the CLC!I’m studying Lumasaaba, and am the only student in the class, with Betty as my teacher. Betty is grand! She’s a firecracker, too, and super busy. I love Betty.
Home away from home for a few too-short weeks
Betty!!!
So life here is good. I’ve settled into a routine and am happy. I'm studying language and will soon be heading off to Mbale to conduct some flippin' research, yo. Until then, Ube umulaayi, umusaale watse! Stay well, my friend!
Preparing g-nuts (peanuts) packaged as snacks for my host Mom's small business.
Finished product
**
tidbits: Sometimes I find myself having thoughts here that I doubt I’ve ever had back in the States. Examples include:
  1. Is that rain or are the chickens back on my roof? It sounds too small for storks.
  2. Stay on the outside of my mosquito net, Lizard!
  3. I fervently hope the soap from my shower, which has now slid across the bathroom floor and into the toilet, doesn’t clog the drain.

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